Guida Turistica

OK so this is going to be posted the same day as my last post, but I wanted to do this before the fam gets here, and as busy as I’ve been with other stuff lately, I thought I should do it now before I put it off any more. This is going to be a random collection of things that I think you should know, that may or may not be in Rick Steves.

There are two kinds of police here: Carabinieri, and Polizia Municipale. Basially, the Carabinieri were formed because the Polizia weren’t very effective. So, Carabinieri are kind of a cross between a soldier and a police officer. In a nutshell, they’re police officers that wear bulletproof vests and carry automatic weapons. I, personally, am terrified of the Carabinieri, even though you can jaywalk right in front of them and they don’t care. Basically, you can do anything you want in this country short of stealing, murdering, or picnicking on the lawn of Piazza Venezia. Both the Carabinieri and Polizia are there to look good and keep things from getting too out of hand.

I alluded to this with my jaywalking comment, but I want to clarify: In this city, the concept of crosswalks and traffic lanes doesn’t really exist. There are painted crosswalks… most drivers and pedestrians ignore them. Either cross when there’s a break in traffic, or walk right out into the middle of traffic and make a driver stop. If you’re uncomfortable doing that, cross right behind a Roman. They’ll stop the traffic for you, because they have NO fear of the insane drivers here. Also on this topic: cars are one thing. Motorini (Vespas, motorcycles, and things of that nature) are downright suicidal. They drive insanely fast, weaving through traffic, frequently on the wrong side of the road into oncoming traffic… anytime you’re in or near the street, keep a very very attentive eye out for these.

Buses are incredibly confusing, slow, usually full of people, and generally a pain. That said, they’re also how I get EVERYwhere around the center. With some 800 lines, there’s probably a bus going where you want to go. If you can plan a bit ahead of time, use http://atac.roma.it to find out the most efficient bus (or buses) to get from point A to point B. This also will tell you how frequently the buses come, which is nice because some are every 20 minutes, so you may have to wait a while to catch one, while others come as frequently as every 3 minutes.

Bathrooms in the city: A lot of public ones you have to pay for. Peeing at Stazione Termini costs €0.80. At most bars, an espresso costs €0.80. Therefore, if you have to pee, go to a bar, buy a caffè (which will be an espresso) and use their bathroom. I’ve actually found some really nice bars this way, to which I have later returned to sit and really enjoy the coffee and the atmosphere.

Related notes: Everything costs more at a table. If you’re eating breakfast out, I would recommend taking it at the bar, rather than sitting down. It costs significantly less (usually about half as much), and there’s something really Italian about standing at the bar for 5 minutes to eat a cornetto (Italian word for croissant) and drink a cappuccino or espresso. The only reason I’ll sit is if I’m going to be sitting there for at least an hour, either with someone to talk to, a book, or just to people watch and rest my legs. Otherwise, I’ll just drink at the bar and go.
Gelato: I know mom loves Giolitti, and I have to say that it was really good. (I haven’t been back in a while… gotta make another trip to refresh my memory.) However, we have found another place that (I think) makes better gelato, although I have yet to find it in any tourist guide or my book of the best Gelaterie d’Italia. Gelateria al Teatro is on the Via dei Coronari, which is a very cute little street that runs from behind Piazza Navona to the Tiber river, a bit touristy but not at all obnoxious about it. This gelateria is tucked into a corner, and has a ridiculous selection of flavors that’s constantly changing depending on what they can get for fresh ingredients. As the apples have gotten better, for instance, they introduced mela canella, which could BE a piece of apple pie. Their millefoglie actually has pieces of millefoglie cake in it. And they have (if I remember correctly) 6 different flavors of chocolate. The one thing they can’t match Giolitti on is their panna (whipped cream), but I’m willing to sacrifice that. I also have to try one other place that’s a bit farther away (past the Olympic stadium) in Ponte Milvio, and if that’s worth the trek I’ll add it to this list. ☺